By Liberty Lawn Spring • Tips and Tricks 0 Comments

Spring Yard Cleanup Checklist

Now that temperatures are finally rising and spring is in the air, it’s time to consider completing some spring cleaning tasks for your yard. Yards that are left unkempt not only look unsightly, but they also aren’t able to maximize their growing potential throughout the season. We’ve come up with a spring yard cleanup checklist to help you get your yard nice and tidy in time for spring and summer outdoor activities.

  • Check for lawn damage and prep for reseeding.

While your grass can withstand cold winter temperatures while hibernating, sometimes you’ll end up with damage from traffic, road salt, or disease. Prepare to reseed damaged areas by removing dead areas with a heavy square metal rake. Then, apply a ¼ layer of compost to help give seeds a jump-start when it is time for planting.

  • Prune dead and damaged branches on shrubs and trees.

Any branches that have been damaged by winter weather should be trimmed back to keep your shrubs and trees happy and healthy throughout the growing season. If you have hedges, use hand shears to shape them as electric shears can cause damage that prevent the hedge from being able to grow a nice thick outer layer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs, such as Rose of Sharon, before buds swell, but wait to prune spring bloomers, like forsythia, until after they flower.

  • Cut back and divide your perennial plants.

To start, prune flowering perennials to a height of 4 to 5 inches and ornamental grasses to 2 to 3 inches. This helps to encourage vigorous new growth. As soon as the ground has thawed, it is safe to dig up perennials to thin your beds or transplant them to other areas of your yard. Make sure to leave at least three stems per clump. Cut back any rose canes that have been damaged to about 1 inch below any blackened areas.

  • Clean up fallen leaves and debris.

All leaves, dead foliage, or remaining dead annuals should be cleaned up and removed from your yard. Now is also a good time to remove any mulch that you plan to replace, which also allows you to see heaved plants that need to be tamped back into the ground.

  • Start your compost pile.

If you choose to compost your yard waste, now is the time to start your new compost pile with the debris and old mulch that you’ve collected from around your yard. Shred leaves and chip branches over ½ inch in diameter if you can, or add a bagged compost starter to give the pile a boost. Make sure to keep it evenly damp, and aerate it with a pitchfork every two weeks.

  • Tidy up paths and patios.

If any decorative gravel has moved out of its boundaries during the winter, now is the time to rake it back to where it belongs. Order more gravel to fill any areas that are thin or bare. Remove any pavers that have been heaved by winter freezes, tamp down and add base material as needed to get it back to level. If you have flagstones, refill joints with new sand or stone dust as needed.

  • Replace or repaint wood fences and trellises.

Start by checking that all posts are still securely in the ground, then remove any badly damaged pickets, boards, or lattices. Next, scrape off any loose old paint and sand smooth for the best results. Install new wood and perform any required patching with wood epoxy. Once temperatures are above 50 degrees, you can apply your new paint.

We hope this checklist has helped inspire you to get your yard back in shape this spring. If you simply don’t have the time or the patience to do your spring yard cleanup, we offer many different services to meet your needs. Give us a call to set up a free estimate today!

By Liberty Lawn Bed Edging 0 Comments

The Benefits of Bed Edging

It’s no secret that a well-designed yard is not only visually appealing, but is also easier to maintain throughout the year. One of the easiest and most affordable ways to help add appeal to your yard is also perhaps one of the most frequently overlooked: bed edging.

Bed edging is a permanent divider between your garden beds and your lawn, walking paths, or driveway. There are many different material options available, the most popular being low-profile aluminum or plastic strips, natural stone, or cast concrete pavers. All of these different options means that you can choose the material that best compliments your home or yard.

The benefits of bed edging include:

  • Clean and Well Defined Borders

Edging helps to provide a clear and well-defined border between the different areas of your yard. And because there are many decorative options available, it can actually contribute to the overall curb appeal of your home.

  • Weed Growth Prevention

Edging helps to create a defined break between areas of your yard, because it adds a trench between your bed and your lawn. This means that weeds are much less likely to spread from the lawn to the natural area, or from the natural area to the lawn.

  • Easier Edge Maintenance

By leaving a slight lip (approximately 1 inch) on the lawn side, trimming your grass is quick and simple because it allows room for your mower to reach all of the grass.

  • Less Unwanted Growth

Bed edging not only helps prevent the spread of weeds, it also helps to prevent other plants from growing where they aren’t wanted. This includes both grass and decorative plants, which can overgrow into unwanted areas during the summer.

  • Mulch Stays in Place Even after Heavy Rains

Your mulch does the job it was intended to do, hold moisture and block weeds, much better because it stays in place. Even after inches and inches of rain, the trench at the edge provides a natural drain and helps contain the mulch. This not only saves you from having to clean up or rearrange your mulch every time it rains, but it also saves you money on replacement mulch.

If you are considering adding bed edging to your lawn and aren’t sure of where to start, we are happy to help you. From design to material choices to installation, we can help you with all aspects of the process. Give us a call today to set up an appointment for your initial consultation!

By Liberty Lawn Mulch • Tips and Tricks 0 Comments

Rocks vs. Mulch – Which is Better in Flower Beds & Around Trees?

Whether you are considering adding mulch to your flower beds or around your trees, there are many different points to consider. Which looks better? Which benefits my plants more? Which is lower maintenance? Let us help you answer some of these questions by listing the pros and cons of the two most popular mulch options: organic mulch and river rocks.

Organic Mulch

Pros

  • Better Growth: Mulch can nearly double how fast trees and plants grow, according to studies.
  • Less Water: Mulch reduces water evaporation, so you spend less time and money watering!
  • More Nutrients: As mulch breaks down, it adds nutrients that plants need to thrive.
  • Fewer Weeds: Mulch stops weed seeds from sprouting, so you may see 50 percent fewer weeds.
  • Just the Right Temperature: Mulch keeps plants warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
  • Reduce Compaction and Erosion: Mulch reduces soil erosion by up to 85 percent. Plus, people are less likely to walk on mulch, so there’s less soil compaction.

Cons

  • Annual Replacement: Depending on your mulch type, you’ll have to replace it every one to four years. So, it’s a recurring cost and time expense.
  • Too much of a Good Thing: Adding a layer of mulch more than 2-3 inches of mulch stresses out plants.
  • Too Early = Late Blooms: Mulching too early may slow how quickly the ground warms, which means you could see blooms a bit later than normal.
  • Too Late = Weeds: Mulch stops weeds from germinating. If you mulch too late, it may not stop them as much.
  • Check for Seeds: Some organic mulches, like pine bark and hay, may have weed seeds in it.

River Rocks

Pros

  • Low Maintenance: You almost never need to replace them.
  • Lower Cost: Because they’re longer lasting, it is generally less expensive to mulch with rocks.
  • Fire-Proof: If you live in an area with wildfires, rocks could be better since they’re nonflammable.
  • Weeds Be Gone: Rocks can keep weeds away longer.
  • Wind-Resistant: Heavy rocks are great at preventing soil erosion in windy areas.
  • Perfect for Rock and Cacti Gardens: Rocks are just right for these garden spaces!

Cons

  • Too Hot: Rocks, especially lighter ones, raise the soil temperature, leading to stressed, thirsty plants.
  • No Benefit to Plants: Rocks don’t aid plant growth or soil health.
  • Messy pH: Most trees prefer acidic soil, but rocks create alkaline soil, which can hurt trees.
  • Return of the Weeds: Wind will eventually blow soil between rocks, creating a spot for weeds to grow.
  • No Good for Pruning: Rocks can prohibit rejuvenation pruning, creating unwieldy shrubs.
  • Remove by Hand: If you want to remove stones, you must do it manually, which can be tedious!

Our Verdict

Organic mulch is much better overall for the health of your flower beds and trees. Stone, however, is better than no mulch at all if you absolutely must have rock. Still unsure of what you’d like in your landscaping? Give us a call or send an email to get our expert opinion.

LibertyLawn@gmail.com / 402.423.0061

3810 Cornhusker Hwy, Lincoln, NE 68504 / PO Box 29442. Lincoln, NE 68529

By Liberty Lawn Emerald Ash Borer 0 Comments

Should You Treat or Remove Your Ash Tree with EAB?

The Midwest currently faces a very real threat to a large portion of its public and private trees. An invasive and exotic pest known as Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) has already infested many ash trees, and will eventually infest all ash trees if it is left untreated. Initially discovered in the U.S. in 2002 near Detroit, Michigan, EAB is a very serious pest that has a track record of killing all untreated ash trees in infested cities.

EAB is now considered the most destructive forest pest ever seen in North America. It has been killing ash trees in cities for over a decade, and it is now widely accepted this pest will kill all untreated ash trees, likely costing cities, states, and homeowners billions of dollars in the process.

When to Remove Your Ash Trees

The decision whether or not to remove an infected ash tree is up to you. While there are a number of effective treatment options, they typically last only 1-2 years and need to be repeated for the life of the tree. Please remember that treatments are not effective if more than 30% of the tree canopy is already dead.

Removing a beloved tree is a tough choice to face. We want to help you make an informed decision that is best for you and the health of your trees. Our certified arborists will guide you through a process that considers your budget, the value of the tree to your property, and respects the sentimental nature of your trees.

When to Treat Your Ash Trees

When it comes to EAB, there is one big question for cities and homeowners alike: “Should I treat my trees to protect them, or should I remove them so dead trees don’t threaten other people or property?” For homeowners, there is a short list of steps to consider:

  • Check your property to see if you have ash trees. Check your trees now before you begin to see dieback.
  • Make some tough decisions about whether to remove the tree and replant, or treat the tree and protect it. A certified arborist can be a big help in quickly assessing the health of the ash and help you make a decision. Doing nothing will only delay the problem and will likely result in the tree’s death and possible injury or damage to nearby property.
  • Realize that most treatments require re-application at least every two years for the life of the ash tree. Ask yourself if you’re willing to keep up treatments if you decide to keep the tree. If not, it is recommended that the tree be removed.

Please contact our licensed and certified arborists at Liberty Lawn & Landscape, Inc. for your free Emerald Ash Borer Evaluation. We can help you assess your ash trees so that you can make the decision whether to treat or remove your ash trees. In making either decision, you can help be a part of the nationwide effort to keep EAB from removing ash trees from our communities.

LibertyLawn@gmail.com / 402.423.0061

3810 Cornhusker Hwy, Lincoln, NE 68504 / PO Box 29442. Lincoln, NE 68529

 

By Liberty Lawn COVID-19 0 Comments

COVID-19 Precautions

With the increasing concerns in regard to the COVID-19 pandemic, we here at Liberty Lawn & Landscape are trying to be proactive while still providing you the quality services that you expect from us. We understand our responsibilities to our employees, the citizens of our community, and to you, our customers, and we take these responsibilities very seriously.

We are going to continue to perform services as close to normal as possible, while adopting a few government requested changes to our normal procedures. These changes will be as follows:

  • Our meetings, estimate requests, service requests, and all other questions or concerns in general from customers will happen electronically by means of email, phone, texts, skype, etc.
  • We will be limiting contact between our clientele and maintenance personnel while they are on your property.
  • We will endeavor, when weather permits and times are available, to work on days and hours that will lessen our physical contact with your employees and residents.

We hope that these changes limiting our contact with our clients will allow us here at Liberty Lawn to lessen the possible exposure to COVID-19 for both ourselves and your families. In turn, we ask our customers to:

  • Please have your employees and/or residents minimize contact with our employees as much as possible while they service your business or residence.
  • Any questions or concerns regarding your services we ask that you contact the office either by email, text or phone. 402.423.006, or libertylawn@gmail.com

Thank you for your patience while we endeavor to provide the best service possible in these trying times. If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to relay them directly to our office. We look forward to continuing the best possible service to you, and hope that all of our clients remain healthy and safe during these testing times.

By Liberty Lawn Spring • Tips and Tricks 0 Comments

Pruning Tips for Spring

Pruning Tips for Spring

Spring is just around the corner, which means that now is a good time to start thinking about pruning your trees and shrubs. Well-maintained trees and shrubs don’t just look better, they’re also healthier. Pruning helps plants maintain their shape, encourages new growth, and helps prevent pests and diseases. We’ve got some tips in order to help you to time your pruning based on what’s right for each of your trees and shrubs.

Trees

Recent research has shown that the optimum time to prune living branches on trees is late spring and early summer. Pruning at this time helps trees to quickly seal off wounds, because tree cells are most active during the growing season. Pruning outside of this timeframe can still be accomplished with little risk to plants, and should always be done as quickly as possible to repair tree damage that occurs during a wind or ice storm. The only exception to these tips is for oak trees, which are best pruned in December, January or February, as this helps to avoid potential infection with oak wilt.

Shrubs

The correct time to prune your shrubs depends on their variety. Summer-flowering shrubs, such as spirea, potentilla, and smoke bush, should be pruned during dormancy, typically late February to March. Spring-flowering shrubs, such as forsythia, weigela, mock orange, lilacs, and viburnums, should be pruned when they are finished blooming.

Fruit Trees

Fruit tree pruning is often neglected either due to a lack of pruning skills and knowledge, or a fear that the tree will be damaged or killed by incorrect pruning. But productive fruit trees that have an abundance of high quality fruit do not just happen by chance. They are the result of good cultural practices, including proper pruning.

Most fruit tree pruning is best done during the dormant season when no leaves are on the tree. For most fruit trees, late February through March is the best time to prune. Tree species that are susceptible to winter injury, such as peach and apricot, are best pruned in late spring before growth begins. Regardless of the cultivar, do not prune any tree before January or winter injury can occur.

Fruit trees may also be safely pruned outside of their dormant period. Trees may be prune at planting, during July and early August to restrict growth, to remove water sprouts, or to remove diseased or damaged wood. Once the basic structure of your fruit tree is developed, you should avoid pruning until fruiting occurs.

We hope these tips have helped to clear up any confusion you may have had about tree and shrub pruning. If you’re ever in doubt about pruning, or would like to have a professional tackle the task for you, give us a call to set up an appointment today!

By Liberty Lawn Disease • Tips and Tricks • Winter 0 Comments

Late Winter Means it’s Time for Disease and Insect Inspections

Making sure to inspect your trees and shrubs routinely for disease and insect problems is a pivotal part of maintaining their health. While you may think that you can only check for these issues during the warmer parts of the year, late winter is the ideal time to inspect for reoccurring or new issues on your dormant plants. There are a number of different concerns facing southeast Nebraska homeowners. Read on to learn about what you need to look for.

Oystershell scale

Now is a good time to check plants for evidence of Oystershell scale insects overwintering from last season. Oystershell scale can be found on many different shrubs and trees, the most common hosts for our area being lilac, cotoneaster, and dogwood, and injure plants by sucking out their sap. Scale insects can be easy to overlook because they do not look like a typical insect, and can build up to large infestations that dry out branches before they are even noticed. As adults, they become immobile by attaching themselves to twigs and growing a protective covering over themselves. To the untrained eye, oystershell scale appears to be a part of a branch.

There are two main types of oystershell scale. One type has one generation per year, and the second type has two. Identifying which your tree is afflicted with is relatively simple. If the scale on your plant is gray or banded, it will have one generation and the eggs will hatch in late May. If the scale is brown, it will have two generations, with the first hatch in late May and a second in late July or August.

In order to manage oystershell scale, timing of treatment is very important. During winter, homeowners can scrape off the scales to prevent eggs from hatching by lightly rubbing affected branches with a plastic dish scrubbing pad. It is also important to prune out and destroy heavily infested branches during this time. Once spring hits, you can spray the tree with horticultural oil to suffocate eggs and reduce hatching before the buds on the tree expand. Be sure to check the label on your oil before spraying, as some plants are sensitive to oil sprays and should not be treated.

For a few weeks after hatching, oystershell scale insects will remain in their crawler stage. During this period you can apply a labeled insecticide sprays. Insecticides labeled for control include horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, aseptate, bifenthrin or malathion. Some sprays require reapplication in 7 to 10 days, so be sure to check your label. If you expect a second generation to hatch, you can repeat the application again in August.

Magnolia scale

If your magnolia tree had scale issues last year, it’s likely that it will require further treatment this year as well. Now is a good time to inspect for signs of continuing infestation. This type of scale insect is a little different than oystershell scale, as it does not form the same hard outer shell when attaching to the tree. Instead, magnolia scale insects secrete a softer waxy substance as protection. And because they are much larger, they are also easier to identify. Right now is a great time to apply a dormant oil to affected trees, as this will help to eliminate overwintering nymphs.

From late August through the end of September crawlers will emerge, which is when you should apply a insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Adults are largely unaffected by any treatment. For small infestations, pruning out affected branches can help remove adults before they can reproduce. Another option is to have us come and apply a soil drench insecticide which, when applied early, can help to kill crawlers.

Winter Desiccation

This winter’s cold and dry conditions could have caused some desiccation injury on your evergreens. Damage occurs when evergreens lose more moisture from their needles than what can be replaced by roots from frozen or dry soil. Plant tissue dries out, resulting in brown foliage and dieback, and is usually most severe on the side of the tree that faces the wind or a source of radiated heat.

To help prevent any further damage until spring arrives, place burlap wind screens between plants and prevailing winds or radiated heat sources, You can also apply antidessicants when temperatures are above 40º F, and water evergreens if soils are not frozen and air temperatures are above 45º F.

When spring does arrive, take care when going to prune damaged evergreen tissue, as they should never be pruned past where they have green leaf tissue. While needles may be brown, the buds on the branches may still be viable and eventually open. If the damage is not too severe and twigs are not killed, the area may eventually fill in on its own with proper watering and fertilization.

Brown Marmorated Stink Bug

A fairly new invasive pest to southeast Nebraska, the brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB). A little over ½ inch in length, these bugs are shield shaped with marbled or spotted brown backs. What differentiates them from our native stink bugs is their lime green underside.

The main issue with BMSB is their frequent invasion of homes in the fall, when they are looking for places to overwinter. While they do not breed or cause structure damage, they are annoying and can cause off-putting odors in your home. If found inside, simply vacuum them up and dispose of them. Be careful to avoid putting them outside near your garden, fruit trees, or small fruit crops like grapes and raspberries. BMSB have needle-like mouths that siphon the fluids from plants, causing damage to fruits and leaves.

Spotted Lanternfly

A new invasive species to be on the lookout for is the spotted lanternfly. While it has yet to be found in Nebraska, chances are it is only a matter of time before they are here. These insects damage host plants by feeding on sap from stems, leaves, and the trunks of trees, and pose a serious risk to grape, orchard, and logging industries. Affected trees may be found with sap weeping from the wounds caused by the insect’s feeding. The sugary excrement the spotted lanternfly leaves behind may coat the host plant, later encouraging the growth of sooty mold.  Host plants have been described as giving off a fermented odor when this insect is present. It is important to familiarize yourself with what to watch for, and report possible sightings to the Nebraska Department of Agriculture, or your local Extension office.

The spotted lanternfly is not a true fly or a moth, but instead a member of the bug family. Adults are 1 inch long and ½ inch wide. The forewing is gray with black spots of varying sizes and the wing tips have black spots outlined in gray. Hind wings have contrasting patches of red and black with a white band. The legs and head are black, and the abdomen is yellow with black bands. Adults, when startled, expose the bright red coloration on their hind wings. When adults are at rest, their gray, spotted color helps them blend in with their surroundings. Early instars (immature stages) are black with white spots. By the last immature stage, the 4th instar, they develop red patches in addition to the black color with white spots. This is the last immature stage before they mature into an adult.

Freshly laid spotted lanternfly egg masses appear as if coated with a white substance. As they age, the egg masses look as if they are coated with gray mud, which eventually takes on a dry/cracked appearance. Very old egg masses may look like rows of 30-50 brown seed-like structures aligned vertically in columns. Common locations for these eggs are Tree of Heavens, bricks, stone, lawn furniture, recreational vehicles, and other smooth surfaces. Egg masses laid on outdoor residential items such as those listed above may pose the greatest threat for spreading this insect via human aided movement.

Bagworm

Now if the time to inspect plants that were affected by bagworms last year. Bags can be removed until the next hatch, which happens around the middle of May. Once bags are removed, destroy the eggs by crushing them or immersing them in soapy water. As many as 500 to 1000 eggs can be contained in one bag, so removing and destroying them can help to significantly reduce this year’s bagworm population.

If you’re ever unsure about whether or not any of your plants are being affected by these issues, we are happy to come out and inspect your plants for. Simply call our office to set up an appointment that works for you.

By Liberty Lawn Emerald Ash Borer 0 Comments

Emerald Ash Borer Up-Date & New Adopt-an-Ash Program

Let the experts at Liberty Lawn & Landscape and Capital Arborists help you register your ash trees – free of charge.

The Lincoln Forestry Department has determined that it is time to begin planning for the inevitable infestation of the Emerald ash Borer in Southeastern Nebraska, including Lincoln and the surrounding areas. The City of Lincoln has decided that the best course of action is to remove ash trees in the city right-of-ways. This decision will, however, affect the aesthetics and value of many local properties. In an effort to accommodate the desires of residents, the city has decided to implement a program called the Adopt-an-Ash program. This will give homeowners who want to keep their right-of-way ash trees an option to preserve and protect them.

What is the Adopt-an-Ash Program?

In order to address the impending threat of the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), the City of Lincoln has created an EAB Response and Recovery Plan. Working with neighborhoods, the city plans to remove and replace ash trees along streets in right-of-ways and on public lands. In implementing this plan, the city realized that some city residents would oppose the removal of mature trees around their properties. In order to address these concerns, the plan has an option to allow interested residents to preserve these trees. Dubbed the Adopt-an-Ash Program, it offers residents access to a no-cost permit that allows them to “adopt” ash trees in right-of-way areas adjacent to their home or business.

In order to adopt the tree(s), the resident must agree to arrange and pay for ongoing treatment in order to prevent the tree from becoming a host to EAB. This must be completed every two years on an ongoing basis in order to be effective. The optimal time for treatment to be completed is after trees have leafed out in the spring but before EAB eggs have hatched, which is usually between mid-May and mid-June.

Street Tree Eligibility

In order for an Adopt-an-Ash permit to be approved by Lincoln Parks and Recreation, certain criteria must be met. These include:

 

  1. The ash tree must be in the public right-of-way adjacent to the lot where you live or have a business.
  2. The diameter (width) of the tree when measured 4.5 feet above the ground must be at least 14”.
  3. The tree may not be under overhead wires.
  4. The tree must be in good condition with no significant wounds visible.
  5. Public trees may only be treated with a chemical trunk injection method. No other chemical applications are allowed for public trees, including: soil drench, soil injection, trunk sprays or foliage sprays.
  6. All chemical treatments must be in accordance with state and federal regulations and applied only by a licensed applicator.

 

How to Apply

The first step is to find the 7-digit tree ID assigned to the ash you would like to adopt. This can be done via an interactive map on the Lincoln Parks & Recreation website, or by contacting the Community Forestry division at the Parks and Recreation Office, at 402-441-7847 (Ext. 0). Next, download and complete the Adopt-an-Ash Permit Application, and be sure to include the Street Tree ID for each tree you would like to adopt. You can return the application to the department by mailing in to the address on the application, delivering it in person to the Parks and Recreation office, or by scanning the completed form and emailing it to: forestry@lincoln.ne.gov. If the application form is completed correctly, it will be approved immediately. The Permit Approval form will then be returned to the resident by the method the application was received.

After the EAB treatment has been completed on each tree adopted, you will need to return the bottom portion of the Permit Approval form, along with an invoice from the pesticide applicator. Once issued, the Adopt-an-Ash permit will be valid for two years. When it expires, you will need to request a new permit and re-treat the tree for EAB. If a new permit is not requested, the tree will be scheduled for removal.

In order to preserve as many ash trees in our community, we at Liberty Lawn & Landscape, Inc. and Capital Arborists, Inc. are offering to assist the public in taking advantage of the Adopt-an-Ash program.

For absolutely no charge, we will research your property’s ash trees through the Lincoln Forestry Department website, find your ash Tree(s)’ identification number, fill out the appropriate paperwork, and submit documents to either the City of Lincoln or to the property owner for their required signature.

We will also provide a free estimate for the required insecticide injection program. Contact us today for your free estimate.

If you have any questions regarding the Adopt-A-Tree Program please feel free to contact us. We can help with the logistics, procedures, and implementation in an endeavor to save your ash trees from both the Emerald Ash Borer and the chainsaw.

Thank you for your consideration and business, and Merry Christmas!

Doug McIntosh & Justin Maxson

City of Lincoln Licensed Arborists & Nebraska Arborist Association Members

By Liberty Lawn Tips and Tricks 0 Comments

What to do With Your Tree After Christmas

Each year, many people debate whether to purchase a live Christmas tree or an artificial one, and as eco-friendly living trends has become more and more popular, a part of that debate is whether or not purchasing a live tree means reducing the overall population of pine trees in the U.S. In fact, nearly all Christmas trees sold in the U.S. come from farms, where trees are grown like crops specifically to become a festive decoration in your home. Each spring, tree farms plant new trees to replace what was harvested. Unlike artificial trees, which can take up to 400 years to decompose in a landfill after they’ve worn out and been thrown away, real trees are biodegradable. And when the holiday season is over with, there are many ways to responsibly recycle your Christmas tree for other purposes. Here is a list of great options for you to choose from when it comes time to recycle your tree.

Mulch/Compost

One of the easiest and most popular ways to recycle Christmas trees is to mulch it, and then either use it as-is or compost it. Pine chips help soil to retain moisture, thus helping to reduce your summer watering bill. In addition, pine needles are full of nutrients that help to keep the PH of your soil at optimum levels, ensuring health and robust plants. As an added bonus, both pine mulch and compost resist compaction, which allows soil to breathe and prevent moss growth or root rot.

Benefit Local Fish

While not all areas will allow Christmas trees to be dropped in to local ponds or lakes, those that do present a great opportunity to repurpose your tree. When submerged in water, trees provide cover for fish to hide from predators. Over time, algae will grow on the tree, providing fish with a healthy food source.

Firewood

If you have a good dry spot to leave your Christmas tree in, then you have the opportunity to dry it out and use it for firewood. While pine sap poses too high of a risk of creosote build-up to be burned in indoor fireplaces, it is a great choice for outdoor fires. Pine burns hot and fast, making it a great choice for bonfires.

Fertilizer for your Garden

After you’ve had a lovely bonfire with your dried Christmas tree wood, don’t throw out the remaining ashes. Instead, gather them up and mix them into the topsoil of your garden. Wood ash provides many nutrients to plants, including potassium and lime, which helps plants thrive.

Air Fresheners

Are the needles on your Christmas tree still green? Carefully remove them from the branches, put them in paper bags or sachets, and place them around your home. As the needles dry they will fill your home with a fresh pine scent for months to come.

If none of these options are going to work for your particular needs, your best bet is to find a local tree drop off location. The City of Lincoln currently has six different locations where Christmas trees can be dropped off. The city will recycle the trees into mulch, which will be used to freshen up parks and playgrounds around the city.

So when it comes time to say goodbye to your Christmas tree, pick one of these eco-friendly recycling options, and save your tree from going to waste at the local dump!

By Liberty Lawn Trees 0 Comments

Best Time of Year to Trim a Tree

No homeowner wants huge, wildly overgrown trees in their yard. They are unsightly and can even pose a danger to your home and vehicles, which is why tree trimming is the most common form of tree maintenance. Yet many homeowners are unsure of when is the best time of year to trim a tree, especially when advice from neighbors comes in well-meant but vague old adages like “Trees should be trimmed when the saw is sharp.” There is a best time and a worst time to trim a tree, and there is also a proper way to do it. Read on for some tree trimming facts to help you know how and when to trim your trees.

Why Trim a Tree

There are many reasons to keep your trees properly trimmed. Trimming helps maintain good tree health by removing damaged or diseased growth. It also increases safety by removing low-hanging branches that can inhibit pedestrians or block sight at the end of a driveway, as well as remove branches that hang over buildings and near electrical lines. Trimming can also help to increase the amount of air and light that penetrates to the inside of the tree, and to any landscaping below. Trees are also pruned for aesthetic reasons, to improve their looks or limit their growth. Homeowners can prune small trees themselves, using loppers and handsaws. Large trees, or any trees growing near electrical lines, should instead be pruned by professionals.

Best Trimming Time

Many homeowners don’t really know when to trim their trees to prevent problems. The best time to trim most trees is in late fall and throughout the winter months, while the tree is in dormancy. Trimming while a tree is dormant helps to minimize the risk of fungal infections, as the cut will heal quickly when trees being their vigorous growth in early spring. This is also the best time to trim evergreen trees, as spring growth will quickly cover signs of heavy or extensive trimming.

A few types of trees, such as magnolia trees, flower on wood grown during the previous year. Trimming at the wrong time can easily remove all the dormant buds, resulting in a non-flowering tree for the year. Any type of tree or shrub that bloom on old growth should not be trimmed in the fall, but instead just after they flower.

Worst Trimming Time

The only really bad time to trim a tree is in the spring when flower buds and new leaves are developing. Trimming a tree while the leaves are expanding disturbs the tree’s growth and causes it a lot of stress. If you see that buds on the tree are beginning to swell, leave it alone until the leaves have grown to their mature size. Then, if you need to trim before fall for safety reasons, it is safe to do so. Otherwise, it is best to wait until the tree is dormant, as trimming when the tree is still active will create a burst of new growth. This new growth is tender and more susceptible to becoming damaged in cold temperatures.

Trimming Techniques

There are different types of trimming techniques that professionals use in order to best address the needs of each tree. Cleaning refers to removing dead, dying, diseased, or poorly attached branches from the crown of a tree. Thinning involves removing selective branches in order to improve the tree’s structure, as well as to allow more air and light circulation. This technique helps to improve the shape of the tree, as well as to help unburden overheavy branches to reduce the risk of breakage. Raising is the removal of branches growing low on the trunk in order to allow room for pedestrians, vehicles, or buildings. Reduction refers to reducing the overall size of a tree through trimming. This is often done when trees are either close to or touching utility lines. This is best achieved by trimming back smaller branches throughout the tree, and is much more effective at maintaining the overall form and structural integrity of the tree than old-fashioned tree topping.

Emergency Trimming

Sometimes storms and strong winds can damage even the healthiest and well-trimmed trees. When a tree becomes damaged, it is important to trim it as soon as possible. Branches that become broken or have scrapes through the bark present an open invitation to disease and insects. Emergency trimming can be done any time of the year with little risk of damage to the tree’s overall health.

Treating the Cut

In the past, homeowners were often advised to paint or seal cuts left after trimming a tree, and many products came on the market for this purpose. These products claim that they must be used in order to sterilize or treat cuts, and while these products are still readily available, they actually do more harm than good. These products actually delay the tree’s healing process. Left alone, the tree will quickly grow a layer of cells over the cut, thus preventing the risk of disease or insect invasion.

No matter what type of trees you have, we are happy to stop by to give you a free estimate to determine your individual needs. Call our office today to make an appointment that best suits your schedule.